Lacoste presented its Spring-Summer 2027 collection on the Philippe Chatrier central court at the iconic Roland-Garros Stadium, transforming the tennis arena and its signature clay surface into the setting and raw material for a collection centred on movement, individuality and the evolution of tennis dress codes.

Titled “Dress Code: No White Required,” the collection, created under the direction of Lacoste Creative Director Pelagia Kolotouros, revisits the relationship between tennis and fashion while challenging the traditional codes associated with the sport.

For the presentation, avalanches of clay occupied the arena as a reference to the factory where the clay used on tennis courts is made. The runway itself traced an infinity loop across the terre battue, one of the most demanding surfaces in tennis.

Tennis has historically contributed some of fashion's most recognisable preppy codes, including pristine whites, strict etiquette and carefully maintained green lawns. Lacoste's Spring-Summer 2027 collection looks back to the 1920s, when two tennis champions helped redefine these conventions from within the sport.

Suzanne Lenglen challenged established tennis attire by playing without a corset and wearing a calf-length pleated skirt, allowing greater freedom of movement and influencing the evolution of the tennis uniform. René Lacoste similarly altered the conventions of the sport by cropping his sleeves in pursuit of lightness, comfort and speed. That approach ultimately contributed to the creation of the polo shirt, which became one of Lacoste's enduring icons.

For Spring-Summer 2027, Kolotouros draws on this history of understated rebellion and precision, exploring the moment when tennis moved beyond being a prescribed costume and became an expression of individuality.

The collection interprets the tennis court as a surface that is constantly changing through movement. Lines become blurred under footwork, clay settles onto garment hems and sweat becomes a visible sign of effort. Elements traditionally perceived as imperfections are instead presented as evidence of accomplishment, leaving physical traces that inform the collection's visual language.

The garments are designed to respond to movement rather than restrict it. Tailoring skims the body instead of constraining it, while attention is placed on details such as fabric weight, painted lines and the physical rhythm of movement before, during and after a serve.

Kolotouros continues to combine Lacoste's heritage with technical fabrics, using material transformation and changes in construction to reinterpret familiar codes. Cotton garments are garment-dyed and enzyme-washed to soften their structure and reveal movement. Tropical wools are loosened through deconstruction, while silks are washed to create an intentionally imperfect and less ceremonial appearance.

Technical considerations are also integrated into the collection. Carefully perforated mapping on jersey knits enhances breathability and movement, while performance fabrics are styled in rolled forms to create a more relaxed approach to sportswear.

On the runway, deep teal overcoats and soft-tailored suits appear in loose, belted silhouettes and are accessorised with lanyards and acid-yellow pendants. Oversized piqué polos are layered over technical long-sleeved jerseys and paired with half-pleated skirts.

Tracksuits in vibrant cobalt nylon and a vivid orange zip vest reference the energy of the tennis warm-up, while a white coat and wide trousers appear stained with clay at the hem, creating the impression that the court itself has left its mark on the garments.

Crumpled cottons and graphic T-shirts add to the collection's focus on a more personal and adaptable wardrobe.

Accessories extend the collection's references from the tennis court into everyday dressing. A soft, draped bag draws inspiration from a 1984 photograph of Lacoste's iconic polo shirt by photographer Irving Penn. Echoing the forms of T-shirts and lanyards, the bag features a diagonal flap inspired by the relaxed character of a cotton piqué collar and is presented in shades of white, gradient clay and mirror-finish silver.

The sculptural ACE-T1 caged sneaker takes inspiration from the structure and tension of a tennis net. The design explores ideas of strength and speed through three expressions: a sneaker, a tennis-ball wedge and a lace-up pump.

Colour also reflects the physical environment of the court. The Spring-Summer 2027 palette draws from post-match terrain, combining sunbaked clay and mineral earth tones with accents of silver, acid yellow and cobalt blue.

At the centre of the collection is the idea that uniforms should provide freedom rather than impose restrictions. The philosophy reflects the approach associated with René Lacoste when he first altered the sleeves of the traditional tennis shirt to improve movement and performance.

With “Dress Code: No White Required,” Lacoste extends that philosophy into a contemporary wardrobe where traditional tennis codes are loosened and individuality becomes the defining principle. The Spring-Summer 2027 collection positions the tennis court not simply as a sporting environment, but as a space where movement, imperfection, technical innovation and personal expression can shape modern fashion.