FASHION SHOW LUXURY NEW COLLECTION GLOBAL
By IFAB MEDIA - NEWS BUREAU - June 16, 2023 | 15 3 minutes read
Anthony Vaccarello, the creative director of SAINT LAURENT, showcased his Spring/Summer 2024 men’s collection in Berlin with a masterful blend of architectural precision and personal experience.
Aesthetically a feast, the collection was sprinkled with broad-shouldered tailoring, a tribute to fragile strength draped in sheer silk or chiffon, indicating that Vaccarello is not one to shy away from pushing fashion boundaries.
However, the spectacle of SAINT LAURENT's Spring/Summer 2024 was not merely a game of cat-and-mouse with references. Vaccarello’s Berlin presentation was a snapshot from his own life canvas, a reflection of his days as a Brussels student navigating the city’s nightlife. Each city – Paris, Marrakech, and now Berlin – serves as a milestone in Vaccarello’s design journey. These locations offer more than mere geographic influences; they are a fundamental part of the YSL universe.
Vaccarello’s Berlin show was a masterstroke of rigor and subtlety. His design ethos resonated beautifully with the architectural precision of the venue, Mies van der Rohe’s Neue Nationalgalerie. He strives to etch the silhouette of his collection in the audience’s mind, seeking to create a design that is articulate, sharp, and uncluttered.
The collection composed of 50 meticulously curated looks, showcased the quintessential YSL tension between “tailleur” and “flou” – structured suiting juxtaposed with airy, sensual, fluid dressing. This concept, though originally deriving from women’s fashion, found a fascinating home in Vaccarello’s menswear. He elegantly reimagined the contours of his women’s collection for the men’s line, cleverly subverting traditional notions of masculinity.
This play between genders was eloquently reflected in the satin tanks under boldly-cut jackets, the high-waisted pants, the flirtatiously dotted shirts, and casual black sweatshirts reimagined as evening wear. The show opened and closed with tuxedos that echoed Vaccarello’s unique design language – broad shoulders, narrow trousers, high-collared shirts, bow ties, and a distinct androgynous chic.
The SAINT LAURENT Spring/Summer 2024 men’s show was not just a fashion event but a spectacular narrative interweaving literature, film, and personal experiences. Vaccarello’s artistry lies not only in his deft tailoring and meticulous designs but also in his ability to tell compelling stories through his creations. His commitment to pushing boundaries, experimenting with conventional gender norms, and crafting exceptional pieces continues to make him one of the most exciting designers in the industry. With this collection, he reaffirms that fashion, much like art, is a universal language that transcends geographical and cultural barriers.